In a glorious Technicolor reworking of Wings of Desire (Wim Wenders’ cult black-and-white movie), Arthur Arbesser filled his Milan AW17 runway with a host of Eighties Berlin angels on February 26. While the location—a functioning army depot—had all the stark aesthetic of Berlin before the wall came down, his collection was blindingly bright with Op art and harlequin patterns, and thousands of glittering crystals. Berlin’s landmark bronze angel statue ‘Goldelse’ made an appearance in the lustrous metallic macs, while the movie’s flying trapeze artist character influenced exquisite crystal embroidery. Military suiting was pinstriped with tiny crystals. Worn in slick Marcel waves, hair harked back to Weimar Berlin. While jewelry struck a brilliant note in a striking design debut for Arbesser: Oversize asymmetric crystal cuts from Fredrikson Stallard’s Glaciarium collection were threaded onto hooped necklaces, or hung from ears, then offset with colored metal accents. Heavenly!
Images by Dan Lecca & Eli Schmidt